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TAILOR SYSTEM 



DRESS-CUTTING MADE PERFECT 



ra. |rtctn0 t si ijelinaiiott of Scafea, 



THE TAILOR SYSTEM SIMPLIFIED. 



THB KNOWLEDGE OF WHICH WAS GAINED BY MRS. S. C. 
EWING, AFTER FIFTEEN YEARS' PRACTICAL CUT- 
TING FROM THE SAME; BEING THE MOST 
ACCURATE AND RELIABLE SYSTEM 
EVER INVENTED FOR CUTTING 
LADIES' AND CHILDREN'S 
AND BOY'S CLOTHING. 




INDIANAPOLIS: 

INDIANAPOLIS JOURNAL COMPANY, BOOK AND JOB PBINTEB8. 
1871. 



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No. 112,084. 

THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



To all Whom these Letters Patent shall Come : 

Whereas, Sarah C. Ewing, of Indianapolis, Indiana, has alleged that 
she has invented a new and useful improvement in patterns for applying 
Measurements and Laying Out Garments, and has made oath that she is a 
citizen of the United States, that she verily believes she is the original and 
first inventor or discoverer of the said improvement, and that the same hath 
not, to her knowledge and belief, been previously known or used, has paid 
into the Treasury of the United States the sum of Thirty-five Dollars, and 
presented a petition to the Commissioner of Patents praying that a patent 
may be issued therefor. 

These are, therefore, to grant to the said Sarah C. Ewing, her executors, 
administrators, or assigns, for the term of seventeen years from the twen- 
ty-first day of February, One Thousand Eight Hundred and Seventy-One, 
the full and exclusive right and liberty of making, using, and vending to 
others to be used, the said Improvement, a description whereof is given in 
the annexed schedule, and made a part of these presents. 

In Testimony Whereof, I have caused these Letters to be made Patent, 
and the Seal of the Patent Office to he hereunto affixed. Given under my 

/~^-n hand at the City of Washington, this twenty-first day of February, 
■[ Seal X in the year of our Lord, One Thousand Eight Hundred and Seventy- 

»_^ One, and of the Independence of the United States of America the 
Ninety-fifth. W. T. OTTO, Acting Secretary of the Interior. 

SAMUEL A. DUNCAN, Acting Commissioner of Patents. 

Countersigned and sealed with the Seal of the Patent Office. 



THE 



TAILOR SYSTEM. 



DRESS-CUTTING MADE PERFECT 



BY 



J|n5, lying's jjdtotion of m%U$ t 



*HB 



TAILOR SYSTEM SIMPLIFIED. 



THE KNOWLEDGE OP WHICH WAS GAINED DY MRS. S. C. EWING, AFTER 
FIFTEEN YEARS' PRACTICAL CUTTING FROM THE SAME; BEING 
THE MOST ACCURATE AND RELIABLE SYSTEM EVER 
INVENTED FOR CUTTING LADIES' AND CHIL- 
DREN'S AND BOY'S CLOTHING. 



INDIANAPOLIS: 

INDIANAPOLIS JOURNAL COMPANY, BOOK AND JOB PRINTERS. 

1871. 






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W&4 

Entered according to act of Congress, ia the year 1868, by 

MRS. S. C. EWING, 

in the office of the Libraiiaa ©f €ong?est at 'Washington, D. C. 




: 

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MBS. S. C. E WING'S SYSTEM. 



INTRODUCTION. 



Ladies: — Permit me to make a few brief remarks on 
the science of garment cutting, by the Tailor's System, 
thereby giving you directions for using the same. I have 
had fifteen years' experience cutting garments with tape- 
line and square, and from practical knowledge in fitting 
the various forms of ladies and children, I have discov- 
ered the plan to construct a system — a delineation of 
scales, of actual measures, taken from the person — the 
Tailor's System simplified, and brought within the reach 
of all by reducing the price for learning. You will, 
doubtless, think me saying too much, when I say that it 
is perfect. The lining, when cut, requires no fitting to 
the form. This is not the work of a week, merely to ac- 
complish gain. I have been improving this system for 
twelve years past. The practical knowledge that I have 
gained teaching the actual measurement system, has ena- 
bled me to understand how to construct a scale and dis- 
cover the measures, that a garment can be cut to fit per- 
fectly any variety of forms. It is so constructed that it 
will fit to perfection any size or form, thereby proving its 
own merit to all. The process of measuring the person, 
and applying the measurements, and the scale, are orig- 
inal. The measures are taken differently from any other 
system. Three measures are all that have heretofore 
been used on models. S. T. Taylor uses nine measures 
in his system. They are taken differently from mine, 
and applied differently. My system of cutting was orig- 
nally invented by me. Hundreds of dress-makers to 



MRS. S. C. E WING'S SYSTEM 



whom I have taught this system, ten and twelve years 
since, will bear me out in the statement. My invention 
for cutting garments is the first actual measurement sys- 
tem ever presented to the public in the form of a delinea- 
tion of scales by which correct and accurate measures can 
be obtained. We must rely entirely upon the tape-line. 

I can conscientiously present to you a system full of 
merit and superiority over any now in use. I wish to 
prove to you that I have your interests at heart. Let all 
who wish to test its accuracy, call and have dresses cut 
free of charge. It is different from any system ever pre- 
sented to the public. It w T as originally invented by me. 
A delineation of scales, peculiarly shaped, is divided into 
five separate pieces, with nine measures arranged upon 
it — the measure of the neck, shoulder, chest, width of 
breast between the arms, width of back between the arms, 
length of front, length of back, length of waist, and size 
around the waist. 

1. The front scale is used for draughting the front of 
all garments. 2. The back scale is used for draughting 
the back of all garments. 3. The square is used for 
draughting every separate piece of the garment you are 
cutting. 4. Side body. 5. Arm size. 

On the front scale there is a curve to shape the neck, 
arm size, and shoulder. The back scale is so shaped that 
it will give you the height of back at center of neck ; 
depth and pitch of shoulder ; width of back and arm size, 
by applying the measures. Fourth piece forms the side 
body and shapes the sleeves. Fifth piece is used to shape 
the arm size of sacks and boys' coats. 

I have, for years past, made this branch of science my 
studv. I have tested all charts heretofore in use, that I 
have seen. They are all imperfect, and will not fit accu- 
rately. All charts place the shoulder-seam in the same 



OF ACTUAL MEASUREMENT. 



place for the same sized breast, regardless of the size and 
form of the lady, in all forms giving the same result. 

About twenty years ago, Fowler's and Madame Briggs' 
charts came out, and from them it appears that all mod- 
els or charts have been taken. In the construction of 
them you will find, by examining, they are not original, 
but one taken from the other. Ladies, these charts taken 
from other designs by varying, adding to, or diminishing, 
with intent to evade the law, are imperfect, and will not 
fit accurately. S. T. Taylor, of New York, says that 
these teachings are ruinous to dress-making; that many 
of those who teach them are devoid of principle, and that 
they are driven to falsehood and misrepresentation for the 
purpose of working off their worthless charts. These are 
facts we can't deny. What are the qualifications of these 
inventors? Are they practical cutters and dress-makers 
of experience ? Have you ever given this a thought be- 
fore purchasing the chart? In my travels I find that the 
public have been deceived very often, by buying these 
charts upon the word and honor of the lady, and not 
having time to test them; in fact, not understanding the 
principles they should be constructed upon to make them 
perfect. They are readily deceived, and when a reliable 
system is presented, they are afraid to purchase. They 
tell you that they have paid out so much money for charts 
that have been of no use to them ; they were humbugged 
by such and such inventors, or their agents ; that they 
had thought they would never countenance a woman trav- 
eling in that business, and will say, ' ' I bought the chart 
in good faith, believing the lady that it was perfect, but 
found it worthless ; my money thrown away ; " arrive at 
the conclusion that they are all humbugs traveling now- 
a-days. There are many unprincipled people, we admit ; 
but, ladies, if you are humbugged in this progressive age, 



6 



MBS. S. C. EWING'S SYSTEM 



it is your own fault. Never buy a chart, or learn the 
science of dress-cutting, until you know what its merits 
are. Every person, before purchasing a system, should 
prove its merit by fitting a variety of forms. To cut 
ladies' and children's dresses correctly is more difficult 
than inexperienced persons would suppose. The fact is, 
ladies who never learned the science of cutting by actual 
measure, know but little about fitting the various forms, 
and would know less about how to construct a chart for 
cutting dresses. A few common-sense questions would 
soon put to flight your intruder, if you understand your 
business scientifically. Dress-making and cutting can be 
brought to perfection by a strict adherence to system. 
It is a science that must be studied and learned the same 
as any other branch of education. 

Having made cutting garments a study, and for six- 
teen years practiced the same, I may in truth lay claim 
to this branch of science. My husband is a practical 
tailor of thirty years' experience, and I being a dressmak- 
er, learned of him how to fit ladies and children upon 
the same principle that he fits gentlemen and boys — with 
tape-line and square — by the actual measure. 

Knowing how little has been done to elevate the busi- 
ness, character, and professions of ladies, and being im- 
pressed that much has been done to lower it, it is an im- 
portant fact that there should be a thorough reform in 
this department. I have, as a step in the work, attemped 
to simplify the Tailor System of actual measure for cut- 
ting garments, which all classes, even of the most ordi- 
nary capacity, can use to perfection, by a strict adherence 
to the rules, and taking correct measures. 

Alas ! how much has been done to lower the business, 
character, and professions of ladies ! I have experienced 
the heart-struggles of the needle-woman to obtain a live- 



OF ACTUAL MEASUREMENT. 



lihood. "What a dreary life the seamstress has ; according 
to the old order of things t I hope the day is not far dis- 
tant when there will be established mechanical schools for 
young ladies, where the art and science of business will 
be taught to perfection. Ladies, your labor can be great- 
ly mitigated by the adoption of my system of actual meas- 
ure. For this I have labored, and I feel confident that 
I have not toiled in vain* In my career as a dress-maker 
I learned what was most needed in that department — to 
alleviate the toils of the needle-woman. My greatest de- 
sire is to benefit the poor, and elevate the female charac- 
ter — conscious that there is not much mercy mingled in 
their cup of sorrow. In presenting my system, I can con- 
scientiously recommend it as full of merit and simplicity, 
over any system now in use. Ladies, please bear in mind 
that I hold myself in readiness to meet any practical cut- 
ter, knowing that my system is constructed on a scientific 
basis that w T ill bear the test of your closest scrutiny. 

In entering upon the important task of trying to con- 
struct a system for drafting out patterns, that garments 
may be cut and made without the trouble of trying on, 
my motive is three-fold: First, to obtain for myself and 
family a support. Second, we are called upon not to hide 
our talents, be they ever so few or weak ; hence, I con- 
tend that if I possess only one talent, as a qualification 
to eradicate the error that many of our best dress-makers 
are laboring under, who use models, that there can be no 
perfect system. Dresses must be fitted to the form after 
they are cut ; their apprentices must serve three or four 
months before they can baste their work or cut a gar- 
ment The great interest I feel for the poor, and espe- 
cially for the needle- woman, is a sufficient apology, if any 
is needed. After fifteen years' experience in using the 
tape and square for drafting patterns, I have constructed 



8 



MRS. S. C. EWING'S SYSTEM 



a system upon the principle of actual measurement that 
is perfection. I have traveled for twelve years and taught 
this system, and from experience and practical demon- 
strations in fitting garments, may say in truth that it will 
fit every variety of form. Hundreds of dress-makers of 
experience, who use the system, will bear me out in the 
statement. 



£RS. S. a EWING, 

Indianapolis, Indiana. 



OF ACTUAL MEASUEEMENT. 9 



DIRECTIONS. 



TAKIN.G. THE MEASURES* 



Take the measures and set them down as directed. 

1. Place the tape on the neck as high as you want the 
dress at neck ; measure straight down over the shoulder- 
joint the length of the shoulder. 

2. Around the neck, loose. 

3. Place the tape-line straight around under the arms ; 
bring the tape up to the collar-bone, tight measure. This 
measure we call arm size measure. You will find it on 
the arm size scale. (We have made a division of this 
chest measure, and arranged it on the scale that gives 
you the arm size correct, and the proper amount of cloth 
from the collar-bone to the muscle of the arm by apply- 
ing the breast measure.) 

4. Measure the width of front across the breast from 
arm to, arm.. Be careful to find the muscle of the arm. 

5.. The length of waist under the arm. 

6. The size- around the waist. 

7. The width of back between the arms over the shoul- 
der-blade. 

8. The length of center of back from the socket-bone 
down to the waist. 

9. Length of front from collar-bone down to waist. 

10. Place the square rule straight across on the back, 
under the arm size ; make a dot in the center on the back ; 
measure from the dot up to the socket-bone. This meas- 
ure will give the proper quantity of cloth from straight 



10 



MBS. S. C. E WING'S SYSTEM 



across under the arm over the shoulder-blade, and place 
the seam on the shoulder in the right place. 

11. Measure around the arm at the shoulder. 

You must understand how to take and apply these 
measures, or you cannot fit perfectly the various forms, 
sizes and shapes of ladies and children. This scale of 
actual measurement is so constructed that it will add to 
or diminish, according to the form of the person. For 
instance, you are fitting a lady of this form : Very nar- 
row across the breast ; very large stoop-shoulders ; neck 
protrudes out ; the length of waist long ; size around waist 
small. To fit such a form, the measure takes from the 
front and adds to the width of back, because the back is 
wider than the breast, consequently what you take from 
the breast is added to the back by the- measure. 

FOR DRAFTING STOOP-SHOULDER FORM — PLAIN WAIST. 

Fold the cloth ; bring the second line on scale to the 
edge of cloth; dot at the small "S" for neck, and nine 
inches for length of shoulder. If drooping shoulder, you 
must make another dot one inch below the nine; move 
the scale up; place letter " C" on the first dot, the lower 
edge of scale touching lower dot; draw a line up to "C," 
to shape the shoulder ; make two more dots one-half inch 
below the first; draw another line for seam ; place "L" 
on the second line at the neck-point, the neck measure on 
the edge of cloth; draw a line up to "L," to form the 
neck curve ; place 32 arm size on lower line at the shoul- 
der. Apply half of the breast measure one inch from 
the front hem straight across to the dot on the arm size 
scale; draw a line from 32 to the letter "J" to shape 
the arm size ; measure the length of w T aist under the arm 
with the rule ; draw a line straight across for waist seam ; 
make another line one inch below waist line seven inches 



OF ACTUAL ME AS UREMENT. ]_ J 

in length. That will give you sufficient length in front 
when the darts are seamed. Then move the rule up the 
straight edge, touching the arm size ; make a dot three 
inches and a half from the edge of front hem on lower 
edge of rule, for height of darts ; make another dot three 
inches from the first, and one-half inch on waist line from 
first dart , draw a line around the rule to form the darts ; 
place the square end of rule one inch from edge on waist 
line; dot at the waist measure; add beyond the waist 
measure the width of the two darts ; place the figure 2 
on rule at the arm size, the edge touching the dot at the 
waist seam ; draw a line for the seam ; add one inch for 
teaming. 

FOR DRAFTING THE BACK. 

You will observe that the small "S" on the front scale 
is one inch and a half below the " L." That makes the 
front of the dress one inch and a half shorter for protru- 
ding neck. The inch and a half is added to the back by 
dotting at "L," for height of the neck. Common sense 
teaches us that the front must be shortened and the back 
lengthened for stooping forms. You can make a perfect 
fitting dress for all forms by a strict adherence to this 
system, and taking correct measures, and applying them 
as instructed. By a practical demonstration of this sys- 
tem of actual measurement, you will see that it gives the 
quantity of cloth required in the proper place for every 
variety of form. You will observe that the neck must 
be lower in front for stooping forms, and across the breast 
to pitch of shoulder must be shorter. This scale on the 
back for stooping shoulders gives one inch or one inch 
and a half, as the form requires, from the back measure 
straight across from the lower point of arm size to the 
center of neck, at the socket-bone. For drafting back, 
for example, dot at ' 'L" for height of neck and 9 length 



12 



3IBS. S. C. SWING'S SYSTEM 



of shoulder ; before you move the scale apply the meas- 
ure from socket-bone, down the center of back ; draw a 
line straight across ; then measure the width of back ; 
move the scale up; place the letter "N" on dot at neck, 
the edge of scale touching lower dot ; draw a line up to 
"1ST," to shape the shoulder; dot one-half inch below ; 
make another line for seam ; draw a line for neck ; place 
the curve to shape the arm size on lower dot, edge touch- 
ing upper dot ; draw a line for back arm size ; place point 
of rule on lower dot ; lay the rule on bias dot at length 
of w r aist ; draw a line straight across for waist ; place the 
square end of rule on waist line at center of back ; dot at 
waist measure on the back scale; place the figure 2 on 
the rule at back arm size, the edge touching the waist 
measure; draw a line; add one inch for seam; take a 
dart up in the lining at the center of the back, one-half 
inch :n width and six inches in length. 

FOR DRAFTING BASQUE— FRONT. 

The measures are taken the same as for a plain waist. 
Draft out a plain waist with two darts, the same as dress, 
one inch shorter than waist measure. Measure fourteen 
inches straight down the front from waist seam, and four- 
teen inches on the bias under the arm from waist seam, 
and twenty inches across the bottom ; then turn the rule 
over ; place the figure 2 at the seam under the arm, the 
edge touching the lower dot; measure down the length 
you want your basque — for example, four inches on the 
hip, at side seam, aud eight inches in front. Draft your 
pattern upon this principle. The fourteen by twenty 
graduates the skirt correctly from the waist measure. 
When you draft out a basque, and want it short, measure 
straight down from the side seam four inches and two 
and a half inches out straight from you ; then place the 



OF ACTUAL ME AS UREMENT. ]_ 3 

point of rule at waist seam, letting the edge touch the dot 
you got by measuring two inches and a half from you ; 
draw the line as long as you wish your basque, with rule 
resting on the dot. That gives you the same result as if 
you had measured the fourteen length and twenty width, 
After you get the length of front and side seam, draw a 
line across, or shape the pattern as you wish it; then 
measure from the edge of front, on the line, three and a 
half inches, and three inches from the dart in the skirt, 
by placing the figure 2 on the first dart at waist, the edge 
touching the dot three and a half inches from the edge 
of the cloth ; draw a line from the dart to the dot ; move 
the rule back to the dart, and draw the second line ; make 
both darts in same manner; place the side form at "I," 
the edge touching under the arm at the seam ; draw a 
line for the dart that must come out, at the waist seam, 
from the dart to the seam under the arm. 

FOR DRAFTING BASQUE — BACK. 

Draft the back same as plain waist. Form the side 
body with inside curve, when you seam it. Measure 
fourteen inches straight down the center of back from 
waist seam, and from five to seven inches across the bot- 
tom to the fourteen length. The side seam, for example, 
is eight inches, and down the center of back is twelve 
inches : draw the line, resting on the dot. Draft pattern, 
upon this principle. Lengthen the skirt to suit the fash- 
ion. The side body must be drafted from the back of 
dress. Place the point of rule at waist seam on the side 
body ; let the rule lay straight on the cloth or paper ; dot 
at 14; then measure toward you one inch; make another 
dot ; move the rule up to figure 2 ; draw a line down four- 
teen inches in length to the dot; then measure twelve 
inches across the bottom, and turn the rule over, and 



14 



MBS. S. C. EWING'S SYSTEM 



bring it up to figure 2 ; draw the line for seam. You 
must add an inch or take off an inch, according to waist 
measure. A lady that measures twenty inches around 
the waist don't require as much width in the skirt as a 
person who would measure twenty-seven or thirty inches 
around the waist. Be very careful to take the measures 
correctly. Add an inch or take off an inch on each gore, 
as the form requires it. 

FOR LOOSE OK INFANT WAIST — FRONT. 

Fold the hem ; place the scale on the same as for tight 
waist ; then fold over the amount you want for fullness ; 
let the fold commence from the scale ; the fullness must 
be allowed; then proceed to draft out the pattern the 
same as tight waist. The breast measure must be taken 
from the edge of fold, after allowing one inch for lap ; 
also the waist measure is taken beyond the fullness ; the 
back is drafted the same, after folding over the fullness; 
move the scale up one-half inch from the edge of cloth, 
before you apply your measures. 

FOR LOOSE OR INFANT WAIST — BACK. 

Place the scale on the edge of cloth ; fold over the 
amount of cloth you want for fullness ; then make a dot 
one-half inch from the edge of cloth, and move the scale 
the half-inch until the lower part at the hand is one-half 
inch from the edge of cloth, and the upper edge at neck 
is on the edge of cloth ; then apply your measures, and 
draft out the pattern same as for tight waist. The waist 
measures are taken from the fullness on the back. That 
leaves the fullness in the center of the back. Children's 
clothes are drafted the same way. It is useless to give 
instructions on children's clothes; they are drafted from 
their measure the same as ladies ; all measures are taken 



OF ACTUAL MEASUREMENT. J 5 

the same ; all garments are drafted upon the same prin- 
ciple — from the person's measure. 

FOR DRAFTING GABRIELLE — FRONT. 

Draft the shoulders and neck the same as for a plain 
waist ; add one-half inch to the arm size ; that allows for 
the seam that the side body takes up ; then measure one 
inch and a half from the edge of the front on the waist 
line, and make one dart three and a half inches from the 
edge of the front hem, the same as you do for a plain 
waist ; then measure from the dart on waist line one inch ; 
then take the inside curve of the side body, form a line 
from your breast measure dot — observing that the seam 
when taken will leave half an inch on waist line from 
your dart : then place the square end of your rule on the 
hem at waist line dot at your waist measure ; add beyond 
the waist measure the one dart and one inch for seam 
that the side body takes up. Then place the point of rule 
at arm size, the edge touching the dot on waist line ; draw 
a line to form the seam under the arm. To get the skirt, 
measure with your rule fourteen inches straight down in 
front ; then place the point of rule under the arm at the 
waist seam ; lay the rule on the bias ; take your tape-line 
and measure twenty inches straight across from the front 
dot to the fourteen inches on the rule. The principle is 
to get fourteen inches in length and twenty in width. 
Then turn the rule over ; move it up to figure 2 on waist 
line under the arm, letting the straight edge of the rule 
touch the dot you got by measuring twenty inches across ; 
draw a straight line down the length you wish your skirt 
on the hip ; commencing under the arm, let the tape-line 
rest on the dot the length of the skirt from waist, which 
gives the width at bottom, with tape-line touching the 
dot. Then measure at the bottom half the width you 



16 



MBS. 5. C. E WING'S SYSTEM 



want your first gore. For instance, sixteen inches from 
the front at the bottom of your skirt ; then place the fig- 
ure 2 on the side body seam at waist line ; draw a line 
straight down to the dot at the bottom, to form the first 
gore; lay the front side body down on your paper; bring 
your rule over toward you the width of the square end, 
which is three and a half inches from the fourteen length ; 
draw the line the same ; bring figure 2 up to waist seam 
on side body ; draw a line down to the bottom of your 
skirt, to get the width of second gore. Observe the two 
front gores are drafted together at first, fourteen inches 
in length from waist line, and twenty in width, and then 
separated, as above directed. The back is draughted the 
same as plain w r aist. The lining of the side body musfc 
not be cut apart. 

FOR DRAFTING GABRIELLE — BACK. 

For draughting back, fold your goods or paper togeth- 
er ; lay your back on measure one-half inch from center 
of back or waist line ; place the side body form at the dot 
on back arm size ; draw a line down to dot on waist line, 
then measure fourteen inches straight down the center 
of back from waist line ; measure nine inches from you 
straight across ; take your rule* turn it over, in order to 
draw a line on the straight edge ; bring it up to figure 2 
from center of back, letting the edge touch the dot nine 
inches from the fourteen ; draw a line from the figure 2 
the length you wish your skirt. The line must lay bias 
on your cloth, touching the dot nine inches in width from 
fourteen in length. Take a paper and mark out the side 
body from your back ; then lay it in the center of your 
cloth, take the rule, lay it on the side body at the point 
straight with your cloth ; make a dot on straight edge of 
your rule fourteen inches from the waist line ; move your 



OF ACTUAL MEASUREMENT. 27 

rule over toward you the width of rule from the dot at 
fourteen ; bring figure 2 on rule up to w T aist line, the op- 
posite edge of rule touching dot ; draw a line straight 
down the length you wish your skirt ; then measure down 
fourteen inches from the waist seam under the arm, and 
eleven inches across to line from the fourteen inches in 
length. You will observe that you have to turn the rule 
over. Bring it up to figure 2 ; let it touch the dot ; draw 
a line down the length you wish your skirt. In my ex- 
perience of dress-making, I have discovered that the back 
of the gabrielle fits more perfect not to have a seam in 
the lining. Fold in the seam of the side body, baste it 
on the back, and stitch it same as plain waist. 

girls' gabrielles. 

Girls' gabrielles, of ten and twelve years of age, are 
draughted upon the same principle. You measure the 
length you want your skirt. The front must be twenty 
inches in width at the bottom of skirt ; side body must 
be eleven ; the back nine, as directed on the scale. Take 
the measure of a child the same as you do for a lady. 
From my scale all garments are cut upon the same prin- 
ciple : therefore it is needless for further instruction on 
the same garments. You take the measure of children 
the same. 

FOR BOYS' COATS, 

Take the measure loose; dot at 14, "D," and 30, on 
each side scale ; place "L" at upper dot, the line touch- 
ing lower dot ; draw a line from one dot to the other for 
neck; keep "L" at upper dot, move the scale up, and 
draw a line for shoulder ; place " H" (arm size) on upper 
dot, the edge touching lower dot; draw a line to "H; " 
then measure the length of waist and skirt, and size of 
waist with rule, and draw the line for seam. 



18 



3IRS. S. C. E WING'S SYSTEM 



For the back of coat, place the scale on the edge of 
your cloth, draw a line around the scale for the neck, 
shoulder, and arm size ; measure length of waist ; place 
the point of rule at the arm, the edge touching the waist 
measure, and draw a line along for seam. 

The process of measuring is the same for children. 
You will observe the line on the scale to bring to edge of 
cloth for children under ten years of age. The figures 
on the scale — 4, 5, 6, and 7 — are for pitch and length of 
shoulder for children. All sizes of garments are drafted 
upon the same principle. The measures graduate the 
size. 

DRAFTING BASQUE FOR SMALL CHILD. 

Draft out plain waist, with one dart one inch in width. 
To get the skirt, measure fourteen inches straight down 
the front from waist line, and twenty inches across the 
bottom ; then place the point of rule at the seam under 
the arm, the edge of rule touching the dot; draw a line 
parallel with the dot as long as you want the skirt on the 
hip : for instance, three inches on the hip and five inches 
in front will give nine inches and a quarter width of skirt. 

FOR BACK OF CHILD'S BASQUE. 

Place the back scale on the edge of cloth; dot at "N" 
for neck, and at 19 to get the pitch of shoulder ; then 
apply your measures, width of back, length of waist, size 
of waist. Draw the line for seam under the arm. To 
get the skirt, measure fourteen inches down the center of 
the back, and six inches across the bottom ; then place 
the point of rule at the waist seam, draw the line down 
the length you wish the skirt, parallel with the dot : for 
example, six inches in length down the back, four inches 
on the side, and three inches in width at bottom of skirt. 



OF ACTUAL MEASUREMENT. 19 

I want you to understand that the same principle applies 
to all garments, both large and small. 

MEASURING FOR BOYS* PANTS. 

1. Hip measure. 2. Inside seam. 3. Width at the 
bottom. 4. From the waist down full length. 5. Size 
around the waist. The pants are cut in four pieces, two 
fronts and two backs, consequently use one-fourth of hip 
measure, one-fourth of waist measure, the length of in- 
side seam, and the outside seam. 

FOR MEASURING SLEEVE. 

1. From the shoulder around the elbow to the wrist. 
2. Inside seam around the hand. 3. Around the arm 
size at shoulder. First, draw a line one, two, or three 
inches from the edge of cloth, then apply your measures : 
1. The elbow measure ; 2. The hand; 3. Inside seam; 
4. The arm size. Shape the sleeve with side body and 
dart rule. 



PRICES OF CHARTS, 



Books, per hundred, - - - - $25 00 

Charts, per hundred, - - - - 75 00 

Charts, per dozen, 12 00 

Single Chart, 2 00 

For teaching the whole system of cutting men's, 

boy's, ladies', and children's garments, - 10 00 

For teaching half the system, - - - _ 6 00 



20 



MRS. S. C. E WING'S SYSTEM 



GENERAL REMARKS. 



TO DRESS-MAKERS AND MILLINERS. 

Energy is the pathway to glory. All industry is re- 
spectable ; and why should not ladies elevate themselves 
in business as well as gentlemen ? The majority of ladies 
are found to be wanting in confidence. Timid, fearful 
to undertake to learn the science of business, and yet their 
circumstances in life demand it, for they are cradled in 
poverty. I wish to impress upon the minds of ladies that 
human enjoyments are only secured by human labor. 
Few, perhaps, are aware how truly this is the case. The 
rough materials given by the Creator, including the sur- 
face of the earth and its contents, are, in comparison, a 
trifle. It is by the power and disposition of man to labor 
that the great end has mainly been secured. When we 
consider the matter in this light, it must appear a much 
less hardship than it is generally thought to be. An 
idle and vacant life, even with all the aid that amuse- 
ment can give, is not calculated to be a happy one ; and 
this is simply because Providence has constituted us with 
a view to activity as being the means of accommodating 
the raw materials of this physical world to our need. 

Shall we fold our hands in despair, and shrink from 
the world, because we are poor ? If we have no means, 
we can do nothing. With such thoughts as these our 
condition is certainly deplorable. Hence, let us leave 
our impoverished estate ; let us look to the Author of our 



OF ACTUAL MEASUREMENT. 21 

being — to the Giver of all good gifts. Look to Jesus, 
the Son of God, who came into this world an example 
for us to follow. He was poor ; " He had not where to 
lay his head." It matters not what our business in this 
life may be. If we are truthful, virtuous, and honora- 
ble in the pursuit of it, our bread and water is sure. 
What can a man or a woman gain by indolence— nay, a 
dishonest character and a lost soul ? If we want to aspire 
in business, and climb the hill of science, w 7 e must work, 
and dilligently too. Eeal independence is the offspring 
of well-directed energy, and the philosophy of indolence 
is nothing better than a mean and contemptible sophistry. 
God himself has vetoed indolence. " What thy hands 
find to do, do it with thy might," is the vigorous lan- 
guage of inspiration. 

Have ladies no rights that the public are bound to re- 
spect ? It is a fact that hundreds of honorable ladies 
are traveling in various kinds of business to obtain a liv- 
ing, perhaps for widowed mothers and orphan children. 
Notwithstanding this, some will say it is not prudent for 
ladies to travel alone. For your encouragement, ladies, 
I would say, if I were required to put your whole duty 
into the shortest possible form of w T ords : work and pray 
— pray until you are right, then go ahead. This is my 
motto : "Onward and upward, and if at first you don't 
succeed, try, try again." 

If we want to prosper in this life, we must acknowl- 
edge God in our business. He has promised never to 
leave or forsake those who put their trust in Him. He 
will assist you temporally as well as spiritually. Prove 
all things, and hold fast to things which are good. 

We are commanded to be kind to strangers. Some- 
times we entertain angels unawares. When a stran- 
ger calls on you, receive her kindly; every lady ought to 



22 MBS. S. C E WING'S SYSTEM 

have respect for her own sex until she has reason to do 
otherwise. It may be some poor woman who has been 
" taken in" by these wonderful inventors, and substitu- 
ted as their agent, with a pure soul and an honest heart. 
Such an one should receive your kindest attention. The 
author of the invention is the humbug, not the agent. 
You are not compelled to purchase by any means. Ev- 
ery dress-maker ought to prove the merit of the system 
before adopting it. 

Ladies, let us consider the duties that lie in our path- 
way. We, as a body of dress-makers and milliners, have 
a great responsibility resting upon us. Did you ever 
think of it ? In one sense of the term we are called 
upon to enlighten the craft, to teach the science of dress- 
making, cutting, and millinery, to the poor of our sex. 

It is very seldom that the wealthy allow their daugh- 
ters to learn a trade. It is the poor that seek employ- 
ment, who have no other means of support. I wish to 
put a question for your consideration : Do you feel re- 
sponsible when your apprentices make a failure, after 
learning their trade with you? If you do not, you are 
to blame for every misfitting garment. Often in my 
travels I find that ladies have bought worthless charts to 
give to their apprentices because they are cheap, and the 
most important part of the trade is withheld from them 
until the last few weeks of their servitude. Cutting and 
fitting is the most important, and should be taught first 
instead of last. God holds us responsible for these sa 
well as other transgressions. Would to God that I could 
bring to bear upon your minds the fact, as it does upon 
mine, that we are responsible for the many who fall by 
the wayside- in our business. I don't want you to under- 
stand that I think that we are heartless toward our ap- 
prentices. We have their good at heart ; but an object 



OF ACTUAL MEASUEEMENT. 23 

may be present before the eyes, but if the thoughts are 
intently engaged upon other things, there is no percep- 
tion of the object To do our duty is to know what our 
duty is, and to feel the great importance of doing to 
others as we would wish them do to us. We not only 
have to train their fingers to ply the needle, but we must 
cultivate their mechanical ingenuity, and bring to bear 
upon their minds that without ingenious skill they will 
fail ; without perseverance and an earnest desire to excel 
they will fail to act nobly their part in the great drama 
o£ life. God made woman for a high and noble purpose, 
and endowed her with a high order of intellect, if prop- 
erly cultivated. 

Much has been said on the fashions by various authors. 
A perfect fitting dress is becoming to all ladies. Great 
judgment should be exercised in style and fashion of 
dress ; but, ladies, simplicity and purity should charac- 
terize the dress, indicative of the innocence, modesty and 
virtue that should adorn the female character, ever keep- 
ing in mind that this world, with all its gay vanities and 
fascinating charms, must be forever lost to mortal eyes, 
and we fashioned and dressed to appear before the great 
Judge of the living and the dead. Thereby, in my busi- 
ness, hoping to strengthen the weak and confirm the 
strong, I, in all good conscience, commend my principle 
of cutting, feeling assured that it will benefit those for 
whom I have labored. 

What great results lie cradled in little things ! The 
poorest father and mother may hope to see their children 
rise in the world if they will but make the best of what 
they have, and lay the foundation of a better life for 
them, by guarding them from the vicious, and training 
their innocent minds heavenward. Poor, burdened, toil- 
ing mother, do not fail to know well the character of her 



24 



MBS. S. C. E WING'S SYSTEM 



with whom you place your daughter for instruction, ever 
bearing in mind that the instructor at workshops should 
teach divine precepts from God's holy book, as well as the 
art and science of dress-making. Without your daught- 
ers being trained to lift their hearts upward in reverent 
acknowledgment and dependence on God for love and 
protection, you may tremble for their future. 

S. C. EWING. 



TESTIMONIALS 



We, the undersigned, tailors of Cincinnati, Ohio, have 
examined Mrs. S. C. E wing's Tailors' System of Actual 
Measurement, for cutting ladies and childrens' garments, 
and take pleasure in recommending it to the public as a 
practical, reliable system. 

S. P. Thomas, 34 West Fourth street. 

J. G. Eikhoff, 160 Fourth street. 

E. S. Buford, 203 Central Avenue. 

W. C Miller, 176 Vine street. 



DIPLOMA, 



INDIANA STATE FAIR OF 1866 — AWARDED OYER ALL 

OTHERS. 

Secretary's Office, ") 
Indianapolis, Ind., March 8, 1867. j 

I hereby certify that a Diploma was awarded at the 
last annual Indiana State Fair, held October, 1866, to 
Mrs. S, C. Ewing, of Indianapolis, Indiana, for Pattern 
for Draughting and Cutting Boys' Coats and Ladies' 
Dresses. Witness my hand and official seal, the day 
above written. A. J. HOLMES, 

Sec'y Ind. Stole Board Agriculture. 

A. D. HAMRICK, President 



KD CXX 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



AGENTS 




014 061 948 6 



FOR EVERY 



Town and County in the United States, 



TO TEACH 



jjjjc- gjdineatura «f Scales. 



THIS IS THE 



On! j Reliable Tailor System in the Form of a Chart. 



J86T* Ladies who have to depend upon their own re- 
sources will find this a lucrative business, with a small 
investment. 

To insure a prompt answer to all letters, a three cent 

stamp should be inclosed. 

MRS. S. C. EWING, 

Indianapolis, Ind. 



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